Herakles travelled all over the Mediterranean, but most of his tales were in the Peloponnese, that huge peninsula west of Athens. A couple of days ago I passed through Nemea, where Herakles defeated the lion in his first labor. I have been drinking their famous wine ever since. Here’s to Leo, the great lion sacred to the ancient kings, whose brightest star is Regulus, the king. Herakles wore the invincible lion pelt through all his other adventures.
The last two days were spent in Argos, where the limestone theater was carved from a single outcrop. It was large enough to seat 20,000. Today it is seating mostly wild grass and enormous opuntia (beavertail cactus). I was alone there… not at all like the places in Athens. Argos was once sacred to Hera, but the signs here say that the Heroon, was a temple to the heroes in the war with Thebes. Somewhere in the hills there are the ruins of her ancient temple.
I am in Nafplio now, a lovely harbor town. The fountain here is where Hera bathed once a year to renew her virginity. I’m hoping it still works.
I’m getting a lay of the winter transportation network. A storm kept all the ferries in port when I went to find my first Greek island. Buses on these mountainous roads are a kick to the stomach. Trains are easy, but very limited. Don’t see the next step yet, but I will soon.
Decoding the Night 